Versatile Engine Management Systems - VEMS wiki

Step by step guide for completing your V3.2 board

GenBoard/Manual/InitialTesting/VerThree is very similar (these must be consolidated), but this page has more images.

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This page is about to describe how to make controller working from the beginning (assuming starting from the board, and NOT the cased unit that has significantly more stuff installed).

Now I'm just gathering the ideas and completing the page while thigs are getting ahead. Page will probably have a better place, but got to start from somewhere..I hope you like what I'm adding - GrmRacer

Could somebody make this a checklist?

I have a brand new v3.2 board in my hand - what next?

• Check that you got everything you ordered
  • Minumum to do this: Genboard v3.x (Rescue 1, Rescue 6, and FETs)
• To do this setup by step you will need to know a few things.
  • Trigger type (Hall or VR sensor)
  • High or Low Impedance(Z) injectors ( how many what configuration) determines Flyback setup
  • Ingition setup
  • Basic Options (list goes here)
  • WBO2 type, this StepByStepGuide only covers the BoschLSU4 WB02
  • etc.

Is there something I still need to solder?

Board has most of the components soldered by factory, but there are something missing. Most notably the flyback. Also some components related to extra features like EGT / knockdetect, and the driver FETs

One still needs to solder by hand:

• Injector Flyback [picture] -- there are several versions, this one is the standard

• 8 diodes, marked ES2J (RED), make sure to solder them in the correct direction, showed by the white stripe [RescueKit] for description of parts

• a flying wire from flyback rail to EC36 connector (YELLOW)

• Injector & Ignition drivers (TO220 cased)

• Solder drivers to the bottom side of the board [ See placement from this image] (Note: picture shows IGBT instead of FET for WBO2 heater).

• red = [ignition IGBT], blue = [injector FET], yellow = [WBO2 heater FET], purple = DPAK FET. The DPAKs are good for anything configurable through GenBoard/Manual/DigitalOut, but only for resistive loads. For inductive loads flyback must be made (either in the harness, or somehow onboard, but no pads are reserved for this).

• Bend legs and solder them like shown in [this picture]

• The ignition traces have higher clearance (for higher voltage capability) so the IGBT legs have to be [spread a bit] to make them fit.

• Knock chip + extra components
  • list
  • pics
• EGT chip + extra components
  • [Image] of mounted chip
  • solder blobs shorting [L4] and [C44] (and [C55] for EGT2)
• Connectors
  • EC36 + EC18 [link to pinout page]
  • Serial, LCD, PS2 - group to eg. one DB25 connector, preferred pinout Is there one?
  • EGT + information about connector and compensated wires
  • etc.
• Fuse
  • [This] is this part it goes between Vbatt & +13V ( has marking 1R5 and is heatshrinked barrel) see [OtherBuildSection] for more information It also covers the WBo2 setup
  • Huge inductor is placed to RED and fuse wires to BLUE area in this [picture].
  • Could someone verify that [this] fuseholder would work?
• Trigger 1 (primary trigger) Version 3.1 info can be found on StepByStepGuide/Notes
  • Hall sensor connected to primary trigger
    • Solder wire between JP2 (top row middle of the trigger jumper section) and JP7 (top row to the right)
    • Use D14 Appears not to be installed on V3.1 & V3.2. It's a 5V1 zener, shipped in the GenBoard/VerThree/RescueKit rescue2 kit. My camera cannot make useful macro shots, but it looks exaclty like LL4148, round red-black glass-like barrel. The only difference is that Zener voltage is appr. 5V1 (instead of >100V).
    • Bridge SJ2 (Leftmost in the LM1815 grouping)
    • Leave SJ6 open (found below LM1815 on component side)
    • The Hall GND lead is connected near Pin26 on the EC36 connector.
    • The Hall signal lead is to be connected to Pin 27.
    • The Hall supply is connected to pin 28.
    • Install 270ohm resistor at R142. (solder side between pin 28 and 29 on EC36)
    • Install 220n capacitor at C69 (solder side between pin 28 and 29 on EC36)
  • VR sensor connected to primary trigger
  • If you don't want to take any chances with the sensitive VR sensor you connect it internally. That is at JP8 and JP7. You could also wire it through EC-pins, but be careful, you can experience noise problems
    • Connect sensor+ to JP7 (For these two, a BNC connector mounted to the endplate can be used)
    • Connect sensor- to JP8
    • leave D14 on the board (use it) Appears not to be installed on V3.1 & V3.2 which diode is it?
    • Leave SJ2 open
    • Bridge SJ6
    • If you insist on using the EC36 connector for VR (be careful, could cause noise problems) these extra steps have to be done
      • Solder wire between JP2 (top row middle of the trigger jumper section) and JP7 (top row to the right)
      • The VR- lead MUST be connected CLOSE to Pin26 on the EC36 connector in this case.
      • The VR+ lead is to be connected to Pin 27.
      • Remove R30 (Usually works with R30 still there but if you experience problems you have to remove it. Found to the left of the trigger jumper section.)

Needed for 1st channel [WBO2]:

• Typically a v3.2 board will only need Q18 [pic] installed, but you should check to ensure that the other required parts are installed.
• Typically v3.1 neededs (R51, R32, R35, R46, R49 in Pump1+ installed, but please follow the instructons [here]
• NOTE: if you have a Narrowband O2 sensor DO NOT install R102)
• GenBoard/Manual/WBSensorControllerTesting, WBo2 initial testing + calibration

installed

Map Sensor

• Install it

LED's

• Install R118 (1k), R173 (1k)
• Install 2 LED's of your choice with the Cathode (-) toward U20 (the short leg is the cathode)

WBO2 Calibration

• We decided on a standard WBO2 like the LSU4 VW part(s, there are different cablelenghts). We always used those parts (except some developer experiments). The calibration can just be uploaded, if one measures RCal with a DVM (which is sensor dependent). This cannot be avoided, check the bosch datasheet (actually it can be avoided, with more wiring and more controllertesting - clearly not worths is for a unit that gets new sensor every 100..120000 km). A free-air test is much better though.

• This is where a description of exactly what to do to calibrate your WB02 would go, in the context, of assuming the start state is unknown, and the person doing the calibrating is NOT a developer.

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Ok, all necessary parts are soldered - can I power it up now

• more table testing
• what to check
• etc.

This page duplicates information from several other pages - at the very minimum we have to make cross-links to warn about the fact. Yes, but not in a single place. This is the basic howto assemble your v3.2 with v3.1 references and cross links as we find them.

Document last modified 2006-03-16 04:43:08

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