Installing Vems3.3 on a Volvo 244 with a B21ET engine. Taken out the dreadful K-jetronic to get complete control. This car should be competing this year in the Benelux Driftseries.
My name is Jochen aka Brickdrifter and I'm living in Belgium.
Current setup:
B21ET
Garret T3.60/.63 trim turbo
XS Power intercooler
36-1 trigger wheel with Ford VR sensor
IAT sensor from webshop
Volvo 960 TPS sensor
1.0.45 Firmware
Megatune, no LCD :-)
Raised idle with solenoid
Vems Serial nr.: 547 controls:
- injection (2banks)
- Ford brown top Low Z injectors with original Volvo resistor pack
- Fuel pressure regulator (set to 2.5 bar)
- ignition
- Coil pack normally used for EDIS setup
12-11-06
For MembersPage/PhatBob: http://www.vems.hu/files/VdBVolvo/DRValues.txt
I need more info how to change te value to get 305 to 307 as stated in the MembersPage/PhatBob/UserGuide. More specific, I do not understand this: Starting value is Manmttg99c0F To increase the intergrator time constant reduce the number OE to 00, and vice versa to decrease 10 to 1F.
MembersPage/PhatBob - We're currently testing a new release that has the knock control code properly implemented. As for the different values on the LCD... I have no idea at all :(
Also, can somebody tell us all what all the data means on the different pages? For example I know now that the D en R values have something to do with Noise level from the knocksensor but what is all the rest beside the obvious as Dwell and Adv. This is of interested for everybody, is it not?
I have another problem: I've conected the original tach as on the bottem of http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm. Tach works ok till 2800 rpm. Then it just falls down to 0. Could this be due to low dwell time?
Why not connect the tach signal wire directly to Genboard and drive it with one of the p/s/i259 or FET outputs? I know this isn't an answer to your question directly, but would simplify your setup. Tach output is available on r045.
Ok, that would be a solution, how do I do that?
You may need to use a "inductive pullup".. http://shop.vems.hu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_15&products_id=102&osCsid=58336efc88600adccac4ffbddabf830f Hans
Attach tach signal to one of the pins listed at GenBoard/Manual/DigitalOut/Table under the "Pin" column. In Megatune go to Extras, Tachometer Output Settings. Use the "Family" and "Number" columns to select the output that corresponds with the EC pin you selected for the tach wire. For example, if I chose EC36-16 for the tach wire, the first Tachometer Channel setting would be P259 and the second setting would be 1. The numbers with the prefix "i" are inverted. Channel "1" and "i1" are the same wire, except "1" pulls to ground and "i1" pulls to 12V. If you are sure the wires are connected to the correct pin and P/S/I 259 output, try to use the inverted channel.
Divide is the calibration so your tach gets the number of pulses per revolution that it expects. My "divide" setting is 8 since the Auto Meter guage I use comes set up for an 8 cylinder. I'm assuming your engine had a distributor from the factory, so it either had a one or four window hall sensor in the distributor. I could be totally wrong on those specs, but try starting with 4 or 1 for your Divide setting.
07-11-06
I've connected signal wire to EC18-pin3 and ground to EC18-pin2.
I don't get ANY reading on Megatune. Tried advancing ignition, spanner on block or even loose sensor and hitting that with a spanner. I'm wondering if the connection is right.
- MembersPage/PhatBob have you tried setting up the Noise level as per the MembersPage/PhatBob/UserGuide ? I would be interested in the results.
03-11-06
Is there someone who can make some sense out of this knocksensor recording? I would like to know the knock frequency. :-)
http://www.driftingforlife.com/images/picsjustforme/Mexicanfreqsearch2.wav
- I had to set the timing on MegaTune to 32° because it's the only way the engine runs well. With the timinglight I have approx. 50°. Is it normal for a engine to have 50° ignition advance @ idle?
- No, something is wrong.
- With crank advance set to 0 the timinglight shows 0 on the engine.
- something must be wrong with this measurement.
- With ign_balance=00 mda.. command sets advance where you think (mda01 is 1/4 degree, mda28 is 40*1/4=10 degrees, mda00 is advance from table-lookup); so your base timing is most likely not where you think. Remove a sparkplug to check TDC with a rod. I had the signal at non-TDC position several times
- Checked the TDC point with a rod
- I've set everything to zero, including ignition map. knock_default_retard=00, so only ignition advance based idle control might interfere, but that is only +-2 degrees
- Then I changed ign_tdcdelay (now 93°) so that with the timing light it showed 0.
All well so far. Then I changed ign_crank_advance to 15° and the timing light showed 24°. What am I doing wrong?
- ign_tdcdelay=7E below, so published config conflicts with above "ign_tdcdelay (now 93°)"
- if ign_tdcdelay=93 degrees is true, increase trigger_tooth by 4 and use ign_tdcdelay=53 degrees (4 tooth that is 40 degrees lower)
- also make sure trigger_tooth=.. is published correctly
- Up to date config and tables below with suggested increase of trigger-tooth.
- There is a suspicion that bad wheelshape of the 36-1 wheel tricks you, eg. sometimes (depending on RPM) the tooth after the missing gap is lost. That counts wheel_error, but with ALLOW_SLOPPY_TOOTHWHEEL (that is default) it runs (with 1 tooth retard when tooth is lost that is 10 degrees)
- check wheel_error counter (LCD mlp01 or MegaTune log or LED)
- No trigger errors what so ever. Even if this was the case, the ignition that I check with the timing light advances too much. I set the crank-advance to 15° and timing light shows 24°.
- check wheel_error counter (LCD mlp01 or MegaTune log or LED)
The most likely problem might be the timing-light: with wasted spark it will have a wrong idea of RPM and angles. It is theoretically possible to compensate (nontrivial calculations easy to get wrong), but best to
- use a cheap timing-light that flashes at the time of the spark, without offset
- if you have a fancy timinglight, use it in a mode where it flashes at the time of the spark, without offset
- If you only have a TDC mark on the engine, note that you can quickly change advance to 0 degrees for testing, just apply a bit more throttle and issue command "mda01", engine will run much slower and manifold etc gets very hot in the long run. After finishing, mda00 returns to normal state. //Emil
- Thanks Emil, the timing was indeed correct. Tested with a LED timing light as suggested on page: http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=TimingLight
Primary trigger settings - mine differ to yours:
You seem to have:
trigger_tooth=00 and another_trigger_tooth=12
tooth_wheel_twidth2=0A and reset eng phase...
It might be worth patching your settings with these and setting up again.
22-10-06: Tried but no difference. With this setup the engine only runs ok with ign_tdcdelay set in MegaTune to approx. 60° with the whole ign map set to 15°.
Again, I triple checked that the engine is in TDC when the mark says so and timing light shows zero when crank-advance is 0.
CONFIG AND TABLES
Misc1out is used for waterinjection solenoid
http://www.driftingforlife.com/images/picsjustforme/config.txt
http://www.driftingforlife.com/images/picsjustforme/tables.txt
Q:
Hello there,
Do you have a MSQ file I could look at? I have a similar engine setup and need some basic VE/Spark tables for my setup.
Thank you.