I want to turbocharge my BMW 518i E28 M10 engine by using VEMS
Installation specific
- connector (if going with PlugAndPlay setup instead of Econoseal connectors). The econoseal-connector based install looks much cleaner (avoiding wire jungle, and less work), and generally recommended over the plug and pray way.
- wiring - whatiswhat. see PlugAndPlayJetronic, it saves some time with the wiring (not only for PlugAndPlay but for the econoseal install as well). Try to find other sources and measure yourself too for verification.
- tables: OnlineCourse/AlienIgnitionLogging is theoretically possible, but requires more experience or experimentation than the rest of the install. I think better tables can be found faster from the web, maybe from others from MembersPage.
Trigger/ignition plan:
I keep distributor only for distribution. I use Hall sensor on crank as a trigger input for the VEMS.
Q: So actually I have to lock the plate in the distributor and remove the vacuumline in order to lock the vacuumadvance and let the distributor only distribute the spark?
A: With the distributor used only for spark distribution, and not timing advance, none of what you described is necessary. The poles in the rotor cap are fixed, that is all that matters for spark distribution.
Q: Do I need a triggerwheel or can I just bolt on two magnets 180° separate on the standardcrankwheel?
A: With many auxiliary belts (air conditioner, servo steering, ..) this can be a problem to fit correctly. The main concern is that it must be rock solid and accurate, and be appropriate for the sensor you will use with the trigger solution. With a good Hall trigger (Honeywell GT1 is recommended) you don't have to use magnets, two slots or fields in a ferrous material is all that is needed and can be fastened in many ways depending on how the stock crank pulley is designed. In this day and age of cheap digital cameras, pictures still speak more than a thousand words, so get some snapshots.
OK here is a pic from the crankpulley:
TODO: fabricate trigger setup with Hall sensor on original crankpulley
ITEMS TO BUY:
- Genboard v3.3
- injector FET 6x
- WBO2 FET 1x
- ignition IGBT 5x
- mapsensor 2.5 bar
- idle stepper moter driver
- econoseal PCB connector 36 + 18
- econoseal harness 36 + 18
- CNC case
- LCD
- tempsensors 2x
- WBO2 connector + sensor
I recommend buying a pre-assembled Genboard to avoid this part of the project, but in case you feel confident with electronics and like the idea of saving some money - then go ahead. I would advice you to fully populate the board with as many fuel injector FETs and ignition IGBTs as you can afford - they can be used for a lot of other things and the minimum I'd recommend is 6xFET + 5xIGBT. That allows you to run a direct-fire (distributorless) setup in the future.
Q: What about TPS? Should I look for a TPS with WOT switch and potentiometer?
A: A true potentiometer type TPS is recommended for full use and control. A WOT switch is not much use, it can be used to raise boost target with BoostControl. In MegaTune you configure and calibrate the maximum and minimum TPS values (idle and WOT). You can also set the idle threshold value (1-2%).
Only in some cases do you really need to know the exact position of the throttle plate. You can use a resistor grid with the stock "on/off" TPS, to make three distinct positions/resistance values (idle, in between, WOT). It has worked really well on this car: MembersPage/MattiasSandgren/BmwSevenTwentyEight
The basic idea is to connect the TPS In (EC36-1) to a pullup resistor towards +5V (EC36-28) and a pulldown resistor towards GND. The pullup resistor is shorted by the WOT switch (raising TPS In to +5V) and the pulldown grounds the signal. To protect from a short (should never happen), connect a resistor between GND and the pullup resistor and Idle-switch so that there is a minium resistance to be met between +5V and GND at all times. Use 1K resistors, or similar size.
[A drawing of the circuit used with the stock TPS]
![[A drawing of the circuit used with the stock TPS]](http://www.vems.hu/files/Marteleur%20Tim/TPS3.JPG){kind=link}
- How will I control coldstart issues?
- Afterstart enrichment. Afterstart enrichment has a cold value (config.awev=1D for +29% at -40C) and a scaler (config.awev_temp_scaling=A0 for 160/256 * awev) so it's downscaled at high temps (above 71C)
- warmup enrichment
- To avoid having too much air enter the engine when it has warmed up, get a bipolar stepper valve or an idle air solenoid from a Motronic car and do like this: MembersPage/GergelyLezsak/IdleControl (it's still an experimental setup, isn't it?) GenBoard/Manual/Config/IdleControl
Q: should I use the solenoid type or the mechanical type from the Ljet? What is the easiest and most reliable?
or this one from the motronic
Assembling V3.3
Q: Can I follow the same instructions as for V3.2 for connecting powersupply and connectors for serial cable etc...?
A: Yes, only the trigger connection is different, the 2x3 pin header now misses the south-east pin. Connect the northern middle pin to the north-east pin to get the primary-trigger forward.
![[Picture of Genboard v3.3]](http://www.vems.hu/files/Marteleur%20Tim/genboardv3.3.JPG){kind=link}
- Probably close, but someone has gone through the trouble of making a [V3.3 User Guide]
Q: Do I have to connect a connector onto the 3pin header which I soldered on the board for the serial connection? Or is this done through the EC18?
A: You can do it either way. If the box is mounted in a location that makes it hard to reach in there to connect the serial cable, it is a good idea to permanently mount a serial port in the car and wire it through the EC18-connector. I would recommend a custom cable using a 6.3 mm phono plug (for audio use), it can be bought through the webshop.
Power Up
Some issues here:
- should I connect the serial header pins to the EC18 connector, because I only have communication with a direct connector onto the header pins and not through the EC18 connector only?
- The default RS232 - EC18 is on http://shop.x-dsl.hu/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1&products_id=48 But other methods (eg. your "header connection" can work too)
When serial header is connected and EC36 has power and GND I have communication with the PC using Megatune (succes! => so your firmware operates), but with the TerminalProgram you want to say sg. like "Manmcd" so the controller prints it's config (than "bye" or reboot before letting MegaTune talk to the board again.)
- v3.3 board is there already firmware uploaded or should I do this?
- Man mdv mdV command prints the firmware version.
- It's very important to use the correct letter case. 'Man' will work and 'man' won't. Read more at GenBoard/MenuSystem and download the refcard pdf file at the bottom of that page.
Thanks Mattias. This is OK I get a 'Hello' from the board in Terminal!
If it's the newest, there is little urge to reflash
- however, you can verify
(not write, just verify mode; prog.pl vems.hex :COM2 Etf or UsabiLity/GenBoard/WinTools or megaloader with whatever option ). If this verify fails, you might want to reflash (the firmware in might be compiled with nonstandard options, such as IGN_DUALOUT. This is not clear from the short "1.0.18" version text)
LCD doesn't work?
I have the blue/white LCD from the webshop but when I connect the power with the LCD attached with a DSUB9 connector I don't get any communication with the Terminal program nor the Megatune! This means something is seriously miswired, maybe the supply ! Hopefully not damaged yet.
The -8V (JP-LCD9, yellow wire according to GenBoard/BuildProcedures/LCDconnect standard colors) for contrast is not needed for most LCD (only a very few green LCD with black frame needed negative, appr -3V contrast). The -8V signal is not available on the DSUB9, so the yellow wire will not be connected in the DSUB9 housing - hotmelt it so it does not contact anything). The DSUB25pin14 has the -8V signal, but, as I said, not needed for the blue LCD.
OK LCD working and no damage so far as on misconnecting the LCDheader.
PS2 keyboard
The JP_PS1 headers is the one in this picture, to the left of the Atmel. Pin 1 is the one furthest from the EC connectors and also farthest up in the picture. Documentation on this is under reconstruction, I can't find the old page anymore. //Mattias
| JP_PS1 | Mini DIN6 | Function |
| 1 | 4 | Vcc |
| 2 | 3 | Gnd |
| 3 | 1 | Data |
| 4 | 5 | Clock |
Not needed for v3.3
add some supply caps from the rescue kit on empty supply cap places. Eg. 10uF 1206 10V to near PS2 1x4 header. There are many empty cap-pads for the 12V under the OPAs. You don't need to fill those all, but for any cap you install make sure the cap voltage is sufficient. adding 16V 2.2uF 0805 caps on 12V traces is not recommended, the 1uF 25V is OK. When there are double cap-places parallel to each other, one is usually big, like a 1uF, the other is small like 100..220nF because the small ones are often work better at higher frequencies
If you are doubt which supply caps should be populated, put them all in, as big capacitance values as you have, given the voltage constraints are met. Make sure you put at least 25V caps to the 14V supply (near OPA, stepper and main regulator. The FETdriver already has supply caps on all onboard places).
Check at least C68, C96, C71, C95.
to check R6 / R13 that is the voltage divider (the lower side resistor was missing on first v3.1 boards which makes no harm but VBatt seems to be maxed out). Set config.batt_cal to match your divider. Don't get scared of the high VBatt reading before you check the voltage divider and set config.batt_cal. It is normal and harmless.