Index for MembersPage/MarcellGal recent engine project
After fighting with cold weather, snow, fuel plumbing issues, unknown ignition module, misterious GND connections inside the unknown harness, damage due to static electricity, bad sparkplugs, bad injector connection, reverse information about VR sensor polarity, bad information about engine position, missing injector connection again (after small rewiring - this was quite stupid), mechanical problem with hood, weather (continuously), dyno, the engine is tuned, not just VE (that was easy and fast with lambda-target and incredible ego correction) but ignadv as well.
- [config_tables.zip]
- works well with 1.1.0 overlapping dwell firmware
- h[1] TDC-reftooth array configured as 30,0,30,0 (60-2 wheel without camsync)
- h[2] set according to new standards: 0x10,0x00,0x10,0x00 ... that is i259 ch0 and ch1
- normal/missing tooth width 24 and 72 (quarterdegrees)
- works with multitooth advanced filter
- standard WBO2 config (normal, amplified nernst circuit, unlike my spare controller).
- works well with 1.1.0 overlapping dwell firmware
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/TaskList - tasks checklist
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/ToolList - tools checklist
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/QuestForSpace - cannot fit the turbo
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/DaewooHarness - old harness
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/Wiring - wiring and pinout
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/VrTrigger - 60-2 crank trigger
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/Ignition
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/AirFeed
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/FuelFeed
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/StarterMotor
- MembersPage/MarcellGal/EngineSwap/ElectronicProblemList
The preparations/brainstorming for this project is below - will be cleaned up some day.
cars
- 2001 year Opel (Vauxhall / GM) Astra 5door with 4cyl 1.6L 4cyl, 8valve X16SZR engine (Delco ECM, central injection, with 4-wire bipolar IdleControl/IdleValveStepper, charcoal canister, and EGR; no power-steering, no ABS), front wheel driven: available for project. I verified that the Delco ECM pinout I got from MembersPage/Fero matched the measurements I made myself before.
- 16 valve engine swapped in
- DROPPED: 1998 year Honda Civic 5door with 4cyl 1.4L engine, front wheel driven, power-steering, ABS (not available for project). The only thing I like in this car is the suspension. I decided I will stay away from modifing Japanese cars.
Both with manual 5 speed transmission and air conditioner.
cars that currently are not available for my projects :-)
Collected parts
- kkk03 turbo (good for appr. 190..220HP) with pneumatic wastegate
- charge cooler (air-air). No idea of its performance
- many electronics, including several GenBoard/VerThree
- 1.6L 16valve GM/Daewoo 106HP NA engine with harness and many. A bit heavy (100 kg?), closed deck engine. Already mounted mechanically in the Opel Astra
Constraints:
- I have little time and chance to spend on the mechanical stuff, so I don't intend to invest too much money
- I don't have my own mechanical workshop. See MembersPage/MarcellGal/WorkShop
- I don't have a well defined purpose (racing, or 600 Hp or something). I'm thinking on 1.6 .. 2L engine with turbo and GenBoard/VerThree for a reliable and clean street-car. I also have some AutoTrans or sequential gearbox tweaking in mind, but that could cost much time - postponed for now.
- after I've seen and helped many installs (and considering that I prefer smart solutions to brute force "power-by-displacement") my recent favorite are the 2.3L 5cyl 20VT audi engines in quattro car.
Because of several reasons, the overall project cost and performance seem exceptionally good for these cars (for me)
- MembersPage/NanassyPeter and his friend Karkus with exhaust-shop has much experience (and spare parts) with these engines (winning dragraces)
- no ECU other than VEMS supports the factory triggerwheel (so engines and car with these engines are cheap)
- the audi quattro solution is quite good (and surprisingly affordable)
Old Crysler Neon info
The Neon is a fun FWD car. Easy to modify and tune. The bottom end of the 2.0 liter engine can handle 1-1.5 bar boost with out much tweaking. Economy in the US, on the large side of economy in Europe. Rooms four adults easily. It's a great car to drive in my opinion, nice and aggressive with the stock suspension. LOTS of after marked parts available. Important to check: That it runs and idles nice, capacity on the heater and that the AC works, paint, and the electrical wiring system. Overall a great car that people overlook. This also leads to low used car prices.
I just noticed the Neon is sold as Crysler and also as Dodge brand (not a frequent car in Budapest, Hungary).
Admittedly, a 4WD audi would make a better project car finally. But it might also be a good idea to start with something simple (and easily available) first, and migrate to a powerful (eg. 4WD V8 turbo :-) beast later.
local stuff
- car-ownership costs are changing, it seems power will be taxed (not displacement). This means NA registered car is cheaper. Hmm, it has a turbocharger ? Howcome did that happen ? ;-)
- Also, an engine above 4L consumes much gasoline in city. I mostly drive in city so 2.3L turbo delivers the same peak performance with lower consumption.
- If I needed >100kW power most of the time (SUV on autobahn), big NA would be better economy.
- But in city, where high power is rarely needed and most of the time the engine outputs 5..10kW, smaller turbo is better
Solved heating issue
After the engineswap a few years back, the AC got broken. Maybe something didn't get power
- relays
- solenoids
- clutch
I got a schematic for it, and some text to describe components (1 sentence each) and translate Italian color names. Most relevant parts:
- the multistage fan control (series resistors)
- the multistage snowflake light (yes, it is dimmed when headlights on - how featurecreep!)
- the CLT valve that allows hot coolant to enter or bypass the cabin heat exchanger
- normally this should not be needed, but it seems they expect some air sneaking through the heater even with the control knob in the coldest position.
- when the temp selector is in coldest state and AC switched on this (apparently the solenoid air-valve allows vacuum to the actuator of the coolant-valve =>), this bypasses coolant to prevent the hot water entering cabin to prevent chance for warmness sneaking in
- a known errata of this valve is that (according to the expert who installed the system) it needs vacuum to keep hot coolant out of cabin, so when the car is started hot, the first few revolutions of the crank (and the coolant pump) pushes hot air in the cabin exchanger, delaying the cool feeling 1..2 mins. Not sure if 1..10 seconds WOT (destroying vacuum effect) will allow hot coolant sneeking in or not.
- Marcell (being lazy to debug the wire-jungle with the Italian-named colors and wiring not matching schematic) allowed direct vacuum to this (directly connecting the 2 vacuum hoses), which fixed the bypass
- cold weather is coming now, and hot coolant (yes, I know from the LCD if and when it is hot) did not enter the cabin even with disconnected vacuum line. Turned out to the bowden actuating the heat/cold air flap came off, the flap in the cold position. Quite trivial, I knew it was one possibility. But earlier some warm sneaked in even with the control-knob in the coldest position => I found this very unlikely until pretty much only this remained. The funny part is that it's relatively easy to check.
- air internal circulation
- also controlled by a solenoid - not sure if it worked right after the AC was installed
- MAP (vacuum) connection for both of the above (this I connected myself and easy to check - it draws in air I can feel with my finger, and MAP slightly drops when I put my finger there: or idle stepper steps up a few steps if TPS<iac_tps_threshold)
TODO:
- Latest in 2007 April I want to add raiesed idle to the firmware when the AC is on (simple).
- And maybe disconnect AC clutch at max TPS (?)