I've fitted a 20V 4AGE in my AE86 so now I've got it running using VEMS. I'm close to have the diagram for the harness done but I'm not quite sure how to run the trigger.
I would like to use the sensors in the distributer. Its got three sensors:
- primary trigger is 24 camteeth
- secondary trigger is one camtooth.
- actually 2 different sensors positioned 180 (crank-?)degrees apart sense the same campulse. You only need one of thosesensors. We call this arrangement 24+1 (not 12-1 as no missing tooth !)
I'll try making it work with the 24+1 setup first. If this fails I'll go 36-1.
//PhatBob - the Toyota trigger is terribly noisy and you'll have to do a lot of messing with the triggering circuits to even come close. We use these:
You should be able to get it work on 24+1 (eg. 1.1.27 firmware), it's by far the most frequently used from the InputTrigger/MultiToothNoneMissing family. Just beware of polarity if VR (or the edge if HALL - iirc it is VR) and measure signal DC bias when connected to VR trigger input and ignition on (and take note).
Someone chose hw swap and installed 36-1 on a 16V (maybe it was before 2007, or he just likes the more precise timing from crank? If wheel is made in smallworkshop, 12-1 cranktooth with HALL sensor recommended):
images taken from http://www.autosportlabs.net
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Or talk to Gintsk, scroll down and you'll see:
Toyota AE 86. GT25 bb turbo. Fully sequencial on stock 24+1 VR sensors. Active COPs from VAG driven from stepper chip. For drift.
http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FGintsK%2FSuccess
GintsK: I use 24 and 4 distributor with 3 teeth cutted. So it is 24+1 setup. I checked polarity only for camsync signal. Polarity was right.
Anyway smarter is to use disc on crankshaft. It is more precise and no need for readjusting after any mechanical manipulation on engine.
But. Your 36-1 probably will not work because of two reasons:
- missing gap is too deep. It cause problems with VR sensor reading. http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=InputTrigger%2FRunOut You can still try use Hall sender instead VR.
- your sensor holder is too weak. Holder should be massive as possible to prevent any resonance. Resonance can cause false signals on sensor output. If hit with wrench on holder you should not see any movement or hear any sound from holder. It should be like engine block. GintsK
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My harness is just about done. I need to wire up the wideband sensor and its all done. This is my most recent pic:
I'll be running COPs from a 1ZZFE Avensis but I'm not sure if I can run the stock revcounter using their tach signal
(Found on a miata forum)
1 ground
2 trigger
3 tach
4 +12V
Any thoughts?