I have access to wiring diagrams for any vehicle available in North American 1983-present. Sometimes I can cross it over to Rest Of World cars. If you need schematics for anything, feel free to email me. alandaeric at hotmail dot com
The very bottom of my page has all the questions I am trying to figure out and stuck on, above that (and below this) is the answers I have recieved and some more questions that I have yet to put effort into looking for an answer. If you are bored and would like to plug in what I need to know or answer some of the questions I have yet to try, feel welcome.
SHOPPING LIST
Have: Everything, except I forgot to order the dpak fet
GenboardV3.2
1 x TPIC8101DW. Dual-channel acoustic knock sensor interface chip
1 x Stepper driver IC, package: DIP16
9 x FET: FQPF20N06L (FAI) 15A,
1 x DPAK FET for genboard v3.2
make sure you use a flyback diode if driving inductive loads with the DPAK FET. The flyback diode (eg. BY399 is fast 3A, or 1n4007 is slower 1A diode. ES2J is a fast 2A SMB footprint SMD diode) can live in the harness, or on-board (no dedicated pads!). The lack of flyback diode will ruin the DPAK FET and possibly cause other damage when inductive loads are driven.
MY PROJECT
Ford 347 stroker
- Using ford 36-1 crank trigger wheel
- Using ford cam sensor (hall effect)
- Using LS1 ignition coils
- This is what I know so far: 4 wires, 12v , ground, ground to the ecu and then the trigger wire. I have done some various measurements on a running vehicle. Trigger is by a 4 volt signal (I didnt think to check the trigger time but the scale was set to 1 second and it was just a vertical blip) that does not change at all with rpm. I suspect it is extremely low amp. I have measured dwell, it sits around 59 degrees at all engine speeds and loads. Duty cycle was at about 95%, stayed constant. Pulse width changed dramatically but if I understand it correctly, that is due to the engine speed increase that is decreasing the amount of time each coil has between firing.
- Use the same driver as the original IGBT is driven from, just solder a jumper wire in place of the IGBT, between the 2 pins closest to the EC36 connector, and use ign_out=70 in your config /Emil
- Standard GM map sensor
- Standard GM ect sensor
- Standard GM air temp sensor
- Not sure which idle stepper motor, whatever the 1000cfm throttle body comes with (GM mostlikely)
- Bosch WB 02, unless someone tells me the NTK one can be easily substituted.
- knock sensor, assume any will work??
about my_make or config.txt? config.txt contains all of your tables and running settings, and my_make contains settings regarding hardware (enabling LCD, keyboard, WBO2, etc). If you are looking to learn about config.txt, look into the file called global.h, or read through MembersPage/Jimw/Config
A lot of settings are also described in the manual.
Will this VFD work easily??
http://www.vfdworld.com/techdocs/Noritake_CU20045SCPB-T23A_4x20_VFD.pdf
It's a serial VFD, it will not work. You need a paralell interface with a 44080 compatible command set. Note that VFD displays often have small incompatibilities with LCD displays even if they are listed as LCD compatible.
WISH LIST
- I would like to have a configureable speedo output. (not for my project)
- Drive by Wire, need some serious help with that one.
QUESTIONS
I need to be better at watching for changes, I didnt realize there was stuff asked/answered here.
In the end it is not a big deal as you can search long and hard enough to find the answers to every question you have, but stuff like this I think really adds to the length of time and confusion it takes to get a board up and running
showsJP8
? , ? , JP2
? , JP6 , JP5
as the pin identification for the input triggers.
Below shows it correctly
The pinout of the 2x3 header on v3.2 (besides the 2x3 it has a lonely GND pad too):
| a lonely GND pad | - | - |
| GND | EC36pin27 primary_trigger (JP2 ) | JP7 |
| VCC | EC36pin13 secondary_trigger (JP5) | JP13 |
The manual is very clear on where to attach the jumpers for the normal build
Instead of using the EC36 holes, I soldered a shielded wire directly from JP8 (vr-) and JP7 (vr+) to my honda conector and out.
Plus I can leave the resistor r30 in and not have to worry about installing it later if I change my input trigger plans.
Why ? R30 pullup resistor must be removed for VR setup. With R30=10k to 5V and 500 Ohm VR internal resistance, the bias would be 238mV. Not an issue at normal running, but it might prevent cold-cranking at all.