Ignition Introduction
As a starting point, I tried to use Alien logging via the secondary trigger to learn what the dizzy actually does. This wasn't very successful due to a couple of factors...
- Alien logging was broken in the firmware I am using. I got something working, but I don't trust it all that much...
- The vac advance on the TVR distributor is not all that sensible - it has a delay in it, meaning that a given RPM and manifold pressure is not enough to say what the total advance should be.
[Add 1D table]
I do have an approximate ignition map from this, based purely on RPM which will do to start with. I will then apply "vac advance" as required during mapping. The new scheme should prove much more successful than the original system. (I will eventually get the car to do more than 20 miles to the gallon on local roads, even if I have to push it!!)
Ignition Hardware and Wiring
I have ordered 8 coilpacks from http://www.034motorsport.com/ in the USA.
Possibly worth thinking about stocking them in the webshop for those of us who don't have coilpacks in the car as standard? Even with tax and stuff paid, they should only cost 50 euros or so. (Maybe less if they're bulk ordered.)
[Pics: Urgent addition!!]
The first job is to get some brackets made up to support the coils. They will be placed on the left hand rocker cover, as this is the only flat space I have left in the engine bay! (The right hand side will be used for the twin throttlebody plenum)
I hope to get the brackets machined from aluminium this week.
[Pics]
Secondary (cam) trigger discussion
Now would be a good time to look at putting in the cam trigger.
I know I could get away with wasted spark... I just don't want to!
Since the cam is difficult to get at, I thought I'd use the (now redundant) distributor body and hall sensor instead of the camshaft wheel. They both turn at the same speed (more or less) so I see no problems.
I have 2 choices -
I can bodge the dizzy to lock up the mechanical and vac advance, then simply connect the hall sensor to VEMS and align the trigger tooth to 20 crankdegrees ATDC for cylinder 1. (This seems to be the time with the least things happening...)
There is a 4 tooth wheel in the dizzy already. I could easily convert it to a 1 tooth wheel...
The other choice is to get a dizzy drive shaft (about £40) and make a custom hall sensor and toothed wheel to fit on it.
Either way, I'm not sure on the requirements for cam sync trigger wheels and could do with a little advice.
Can I use a multi tooth (ie the 4 tooth original item) wheel as-is?