External ignition amplifier connection - subpage of MembersPage/ChrisGerhardt/ChrisNotes
I bought a large capacitive discharge ignition (CDI) amp to strengthen my spark delivery, but help is needed to connect it to and make it work with genboard
Chris, several signs indicate that Mallory forgot to put a capacitor on the input. The fact that the manual say that you MUST keep the capacitor in a points setup is proof enough. Getting a points capacitor and fitting it between the trigg wire and gnd will most likely solve the problem. -Jörgen
Between Trigg wire and GND? Yes
If a missing capacitor causes the problem, I'd bet the capacitor must be in series (so the trigg wire does not directly connect to ignition module, but through a capacitor. This is not the case Value is a good question, the minimum I'd try is 10uF).I would definately use a capacitor meant for this, which means a capacitor for a car with points ignition. -Jörgen
Information for Mallory HyFire IVA CDI Box
All of the below information is available at the link below. It has wiring for multiple different types of setup. I simply want to trigger the Mallory Box Directly from Genboard IGBT. I am having trouble with lost spark triggering it from the Edelbrock igntion module so I want to eliminate extra wiring and parts.
http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/692_697.pdf
Connection proposal - to be reviewed
Figure17 on page10 is closest to what I think we need.
- RED: switched +VBatt (+12V, node15)
- long RED: continuous VBatt (+12V, node30)
- long BLACK: GND
- small black: unused
- small green: unused
- YELLOW: output coil+ (appr. 350V DC : please measure with caution)
- BLACK: output coil- (pulled to GND by the module for short time at the start of the spark)
- GREEN: GenBoard's ignition output => mallory's trigger input: a spark will be emitted at the rising edge. If direct connection does not work (I think it should) try a min. 10uF capacitor in series.
- I connected as suggest above without the cap, and no spark was emitted. I have to go the the parts store to get a points style ignition capacitory.
- see above for wire color and size
- see wiring diagrams from above link
- see link above
- brand name:Mallory
- Mallory Part# - 697A
- make
- when talking about pins and functions, use bullet list where possible, and use the same naming all over the texts, otherwise they become tangled and unclear ~ see link above
- if you cannot yet match the wires to signals (due to limited docs), as a starting make 2 lists (that we'll try to match, of course) eg.
- one will have pin position and wire color and measurement info
- while the other will have functions
info from unknown source
- external ignition amplifier needs a "coil-type" crank trigger signal
- sounds weird. Most common type of crank trigger, the 60-2 multitooth VR would surely not correctly trigger the external ignition amplifier.
- connecting crank trigger to the "external ignition amplifier" sounds like losing control over ignition advance (MAP independent advance ?). Sounds very bad for a turbo engine.
- I do not want to connect the trigger to the Mallory. I want to trigger the mallory with Genboard.
TODO: redo these. This is just an experiment to extract info from unclear texts; use bullet list as suggested above
- assumed: GND signal
- assumed: switched VBatt power?
- TODO: is this the same as "standard(non crank trigger) input" ? purple has 0VDC (With key on, but engine not running)
- I wired the IGBT directly to the standard(non crank trigger) input of the ignition box that is designed to be triggered by pulling to ground. However, the ignition box does not "see" the trigger and will not work like this. If the signal was 0V in the first place, pulling to ground does not have any effect. In that case a (say 1 .. 4.7 kOhm) pullup resistor must be installed.
- TODO: is this the same as "crank trigger input" ? green wire has the 4.8V DC (With key on, but engine not running). This means that there is an internal pullup resistor (to appr. 5V). You can safely leave any external pullup too, it makes no harm. Another pullup just makes pullup stronger (eg. two pullup of 10kOhm equals - effectively one pullup of 5kOhm).
Testing
Cranking the engine is not necessary,
- make a spark-gap
- from sparkplug - but don't hold this in hand
- or from wire appr. 1..2mm from engine GND: the spark will go from the wire to the GND at the shortest path (again: you don't want to be the shortest path, and anyone with pacemaker does not want to be close at all)
- mdn01 will emit one spark (using configured dwell and VBatt: normally visible and hearable) on ignition channel h[2]=.. xx .. .. .. .. .. ..