History

serial number 303, sent out on 2005-07-09 (among the first 5 v3.3 - these had no R181 PNP-ed)

apparently you assembled yourself: confirm R181 has been soldered (100 .. 180k) according to the note you received from the shop: If using VR on primary trigger, please check R181 100k (0805 size SMD)resistor at LM1815 pin7. (min 47k, max 180k; 100k recommended: you can find 100k in rescue kit marked as 104 ).
- R181 is connected to LM1815pin7, so NOT the two pads right next to LM1815 pins 6 & 7 (which is the 3 pin header connected to LM1815 pin5, leave that 3 pins open!)
- You do not actually need the R181 resistor when using HALL as primary, but recommended to install it anyway to avoid future surprise (if using VR later). Anyway, have a note about this in the logs (or trigger related notes) that you write for your ECM.
- believe it or not, I independently copied the old R181 note (we even had an edit conflict when I saw your question and added more info on the pin).
remove D100 if you use powerflyback GenBoard/Manual/PowerFlyback/RemoveD
change C103 to 1nF if using secondary trigger HALL : Manual/InputTriggerHardWare/ReplaceC
solder 33 ohm, 0805 size smd resistor (reads 330 which means 33*10^0) to set AREF=256. See closeup pic on BuildProcedures/SectionThree (not required but recommended)

Outputs

The FET and IGBT places on the board can be assigned with much freedom. See GenBoard/Manual/DigitalOut, GenBoard/Manual/DigitalOut/Table

injectors => injector outputs
ignition => ignition outputs (logiclevel for active coils; IGBT based power outputs for passive coils)
bipolar stepper (if used) => stepper outputs
other outputs => after assigning the above use the remaining outputs. take care about current rating and flyback protection (eg. WBO2 second channel FET and DPAK "extraFET"-s have no flyback installed by default!)
- Use the higher current stuff first for more safety
- except for (low current like) LEDs (like shiftlight), where p259 outputs are the best
- don't forget flyback and GND and GND5 connections

See InternetHorsePower - Not sure why you made this comment but, Javad is the owner of http://www.034motorsport.com and he's well known in the Audi tuning circuits. He's very professional and

I have no doubt that his numbers are genuine, he knows and lets us know exactly the factors playing in to his dynoing numbers. See http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8814
- apparently there is no sufficient information to confirm or deny the numbers
  - true, but usually there never is to confirm to 100%. if you read a couple of posts down there are comparisons with stock and chipped cars, as a guideline.
- does his 400m time confirms his published HP?
  - He doesn't have any recent times, and 402m times have many variables playing in (drives skill/technique, windspeed, road surface etc), so it's not always a good comparison.
- anyway don't expect to easily build a 599 WHP (btw does he really mean whp? or write whp and mean estimated crank hp?) 20VT and run it reliably for long
  - Javad's engine is fully built, that's partly why it has held up with more than 500-600whp for 2 years. Also tuning is a big factor when it comes to reliability, and he has a lot of experience with this. Yes he means 640hp at the wheels, as measured by the dyno with no multiplier applied.
Anyway this isn't very relevant since I'm not building the engine to make huge HP numbers, I just want a good mechanical basis to apply the GenBoard to.
- good
  - I saw that you're doing a similar project, nice. I've done a lot of research on this, and I'd be glad to share info and experience.

Q: Is there any benefit in replacing the SMD transient suppr. diode with the big one in Resc1?

NO. Don't apply reverse supply voltage (or >15V) anyway.