The trigger hardware is not particularly complex, but there are some options and things that shouldn't be missed
The trigger signals are sensitive. Especially the VR signal at low-RPM ( <300RPM, thus cranking). VR is not really sensitive from noise via capacitive coupling (although long wires that drive ignition coils arranged parallel might inject noise) but rather to noise injected through ground loop (switched power-currents that partially sneak through GND instead of GND5) if not installed properly.
- If GND5 is not connected, you get smoke from the ECM.
- If only 1..2 GND5 wire connected instead of 4..5 you get more ground-noise.
- If GND-GND5 bridge (a soldered "arch" left to the 4 FETdrivers, 30mm under VEMS logo on top side) is still soldered (and not cut), you get the ground-loop that injects noise into VR and might make startup problematic
The following precautions highly recommended:
- use shielded cable. The cable must have at least 2 wires besides the shield: the GND and the signal itself (VR- and VR+)
- The shielding must be connected on the ECU side only, so the shielding is NOT actually used for connecting the GND signal to both ends
- use GND (for VR-) and not GND5. The GND5 signal would make the signal noisy (when FETs and IGBTs switch).
- connect sensor GND only near the EC36 connector (not at battery and not at other places). Search the web for "ground loop" if you want to understand in more depth.
v3.1 (trigg1) primary trigger=HALL
For Hall setup:
- R30=10k (pullup resistor)
- C88 = does not matter
- short SJ1
- R55=10k
- do NOT short SJ2
- remove R56(=10k, next to SJ2)
- and solder SJ2=150k (or at min 47k resistor; this makes RC filter with the IC1 line's appr. 10..20pF - which comes from AVR input capacitance + trace capacitance)
- do NOT short SJ6
- The other parts near the LM1815 do not matter
v3.1 (trigg1) primary trigger=VR
- R30 pullup resistor NOT soldered (unsolder it if there). A few mm left from the 2x3 trigger pinheader. R30 is the horizontal, 0805 package; further away from the EC36
- C88 = does not matter
- R55=10K
- short SJ1
- do NOT short SJ2
- short SJ6
- D14 is optional (3.9..5.1V zener diode)
- U11 (LM8515)
- R56 (10K) resistor of input RC lowpass
- C30 capacitor of input RC lowpass (1..3.3nF for multitooth, upto 100nF for coiltype-only-for-sure setup)
- R57 (75K)
- R87 (1 .. 1.6M) resistor of peak-detector
- C38 (0.22uF) capacitor of peak-detector
- R88 (10K) output pullup resistor
- C31 (1nF)
- C39 (0.22uF)
- measure with DVM 200kOhm range between primary trigger (trigger1_conn) signal and LM1815 pin3. If >21kOhm than you don't have VR input selected. Check around SJ1
- follow the path on the GenBoard/VerThree/Schematic, from the inputtrigger to the LM1815 input pin: Identify the components that are in the path
- measure with DVM 2kOhm range between LM1815 pin12 to AVR's pin29 (IC1). If > 10 Ohm, than SJ6 is not shorted
- apply self stim, it only requires a 1..10uF capacitor and a few simple menu-commands (see OutputTrigger) and it can save you hours. Don't skip this unless the trigger setup works immediately.
v3.2 / v3.3 (trig1) primary trigger=VR - most parts are soldered. Still check at least the SJ6 and R30.
THIS IS THE MOST COMMON SETUP - therefore it is described with picture on the trigger main page: GenBoard/Manual/InputTrigger
- on v3.2, check that R30 pullup resistor NOT soldered (unsolder it if there). A few mm left from the 2x3 trigger pinheader. R30 is the horizontal, 0805 package; further away from the EC36. On v3.3 this is not soldered in factory
- short SJ6 (right below LM1815) by soldering a very short wire
- connect primary trigger input to the internal signal directly (no capacitor needed, just a very short wire). Either
- put a jumper: connect the upper-middle pin to the upper-right pin of 3x2 pinheader (viewing from the "Top" side)
- or rather solder on bottom of the board to short JP2 and JP7 : connect upper-middle to upper-left pin (viewing from the "Bottom" side)
The 3x2 pinheader is between the EC36 and the LM1815, but
- on v3.2 it has an additional GND pad besides the 3x2 pins.
- on v3.3 it lacks a pin (so only 5 pin instead of 6) because trig2 is connected with PCB trace
Make sure you view the board in a good orientation, so econoseal points down and "Top" or "Bottom" text is readable.
v3.2 (trig1) primary trigger=HALL
- connect JP2 & JP7 (jumper top right of the 2x3)
- do NOT short SJ2
- remove R56(=10k, next to SJ2)
- and solder SJ2=150k (or at min 47k resistor; this makes RC filter with the IC1 line's appr. 10..20pF - which comes from AVR input capacitance + trace capacitance)
v3.2 (trig2) secondary trigger=HALL
[Picture of 2x3 header, SJ6, SJ2 on Genboard v3.2] R56 and C30 are right after SJ2 (LM1815 pin3).
- connect JP5 & JP13 (jumper bottom right of the 2x3) as on the above pic
- R91=10k
- short SJ10 (or short C89)
SJ5
There are 2 schools, one says to short SJ5 (this should work well, with no difference for a good signal). The other likes a bit extra filtering and says:
NOT short SJ5
- recommended SJ5=150k (resistor; this makes RC filter with the IC3 line's appr. 10..20pF - which comes from AVR input capacitance + trace capacitance)
v3.2 Primary and Secondary setup for Hall - TODO: split to separate primary and secondary. Merge with above instructions for the same setup!
I've set up two v3.2 Genboards with primary and secondary triggers configured for Hall sensor input. I've gone by advice from Emil and Jörgen here, which conflicts with what is recommended above.
- Bottom view [Picture of trigger area]
- I've added 1n capacitors between ground and each trigger signal. I've shorted SJ5 in this picture.
- Top view 1 [Picture near jumpers]
- The jumpers are in place for the trigger signals, they might be replaced by solder jumpers in the future if I have issues - the jumpers won't budge easily.
- There are two pull-up resistors (103) near the jumpers, R30 and R48. These are replaced with 102=1k to make the pull-up stronger and lessen the chance of signal problems.
- Top view 2 [Picture near LM1815 chip]
- I've shorted SJ2 in this picture. I've also removed R56 (103=10k), the resistor next to SJ2, it would pull down the signal if left in place.
This has been tested to work on the primary trigger only! The secondary trigger is set up the same way, I have no doubts using this method on an engine that needs both crank + cam sensors of Hall-type.
//Mattias (MembersPage/MattiasSandgren)
v3.0 .. v3.1 secondary trigger (Trigg2) VR setup (with LM1815)
U12, R58, R59, R89, R90, R91, C32, C33, C34, C40, D24, D27, SJ7 & SJ10 (shorted)
v3.2 secondary trigger (Trigg2) VR setup (with LM1815)
Solder
- LM1815
- SJ7
v3.3 secondary trigger=VR hardware setup (often called AudiTrigger, but the same applies for traditional secondary_trigger=VR)
- don't forget to set up primary trigger (usually for VR, see above)
- Check [assembled controller item] to understand it better
- solder the 2nd LM1815 (same orientation as first: pin1 closest to atmega)
- R182=100k resistor at LM1815pin7. This is very important for the adaptive hysteresis to work correctly, has the same function as R181 for the first LM1815 (soldered in factory)
- wire from EC18pin12 to the 2nd LM1815 input pad (that goes through a 18k resistor to pin3 of the second LM1815)
- SJ7 solder-blob on the bottom, so LM1815pin12 output is connected to the microcontroller input pin. This blob is on the bottom, close, to the line of FETs.
Warning:
EC36pin13 is set up for HALL (nothing to do), but beware, that this setup (with the SJ7 blob shorted) does NOT work for secondary_trigger=HALL only:
- OK: EC18pin12=VR, EC36pin13=HALL (for audi's 3-signal system)
- OK: EC18pin12=VR (EC36pin13 not connected) not for audi, but for a 1-tooth VR-type cam signal (like in Fiat Stilo)
- BEWARE: EC18pin12=not connected, EC36pin13=HALL setup will only work if you remove the SJ7 solder-blob from the bottom (or remove the LM1815, but that's harder :-)
v3.3 Secondary trigger (Trigg2) Hall setup:
nothing to do
Special setup: VR, when input does not go below 0V - very rare!!!
You only need a series capacitance (eg. 10uF, 1210 package, 25V or 35V) when the signal otherwise does not go below 0 Volt. The capacitor allows a voltage difference, but still forward the signal.
Useful, for example when stealing the 0.65V based VR signal of an alien ECM (as on MembersPage/Gabor). SJ1 must not be shorted in this case.
- for v3.0 and v3.1: C88=10uF
- v3.2 and v3.3: 10uF, 25V (or bigger) cap must be soldered instead of the input jumper (that is between JP2 and JP7)
The rest of the VR setup is as usual, see in the relevant section (make sure R30 pullup resistor is not soldered!)
See also
- GenBoard/Manual
- GenBoard/VerThree/Schematic
- [very good introduction] to VR and HALL sensors