from the shop :

Box :

* 1 x Alubos1600

* 1 x Alubos EC frontplate transparant

* 1 x Alubos Endplate transparant

* 2 x Alubos gasket

* 3 x clamping plates (2 can be enough with max 2xTO220IGBTs)

Connectors :

* 1 x Econoseal18-PCB

* 1 x Econoseal36-PCB

* 1 x Econoseal18-Wire

* 1 x EconoSeal36-Wire

The EconoSeal36-Wire and Econoseal18-Wire are just the uncrimped wire-side connector housing + recepticles + rubber seals + backout plate; crimping yourself saves on wire and is very convenient. Choose EC..-wire if you're not afraid of crimping - which is easy.

With EC.. harness, the recepticles are crimped to the end of silicone insulation wires, so you don't need to crimp, but probably cut away some wires and take care to pull in enough wires (without hurting the recepticles).

Either way is fine, of course.

ECU:

* 1 x GenBoard v3.2 board

* 12 x FET: FQPF20N06L (8 injectors+ 1 WBO2 + 3 spare)

* 8 x Ignition IGBT ( 4 coil + 1 fuelpump relay + 3 spare ) yes, it's OK to use it for driving the fuelpump relay

* 1 x WideBandO2 sensor

* 1 x Wideband connector

* 2 x Ignition IGBT DPAK ( 1 boostcontrol solenoid + 1 water injection ) Either an "Ignition IGBT DPAK" or a TO220 "Ignition IGBT" or an "FQPF20N06L" is good for each extra function.

* 1 X MPX4250AP ( map sensor ) use with max. 20psi boost.

* 1 x LCD4x20

* 1 x TPIC8101DW ( knock sensing )

* 1 x K-thermocouple

* 1 X AD597AR 8-pin (amplifier chip that can be soldered onboard) is also needed for EGT.

* what to use if the distributor has a hall effect sensor ? If it makes 1 pulse per cam rotation, connect it to secondary trigger: (you have a sensor, so no need for the TLE4905L). However, in your setup there is absolutely no need to depend on camsync. It would help to say a few more words about crank-trigger.

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other parts :

The (air, coolant) temperature sensors are ideally 2 .. 3kOhm at room temp (very different resistance requires changing the onboard pullup-resistor), which is true for GM temperature sensors. But if you take a DVM with you to the pull-yard...

* 1 x IntakeAirTemp sensor

* 1 x Coolant temp

* 1 x knock sensor ? GM ? Any acoustic knocksensor should be OK that you can bolt on.

* multitooth crankwheel, VR-sensor from junkyard

* 4 wasted spark coils ( any brand. Bigger ones are more tolerant to abuse, but any should do )

* 1 x throttle body + tps

did I forget any thing ?

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It seems we have to make relevant sections clearer: check DummyIgnition again. Yes, DummyIgnition is an easy and effective way. But it works just as good with wastedspark!

* wastedspark can be controlled by (possibly onboard) IGBTs (which is flexible, configurable dwell: => dummy ignition).

Wasted spark means less heat on individual IGBTs, on one transformer, less single point of failure and more room in the engine bay by eliminating the need for a [distributor]

The

[recommonded coil] (by mallory).

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Ignition options

I can do the ignition in three ways. All of them are DummyIgnition, controlled by GenBoard/VerThree and driven by onboard IGBTs.

* HALL effect distributor: dist. + 1 coil only (IGBT and coil meets high power => heat stress). Mechanical parts ...

* DIS CNP: 8 coils + depends on cam sync (secondary trigger). IMHO Not better than wasted spark.

* wasted spark: 4 coils

** multitooth (typically 36-1) wheel (almost always with VR sensor) There are wheels and VR sensors evereywhere from Ford EDIS systems (these last longer than the vehicle). IMHO this is the preferred way

** even-type trigger (4 crankteeth or 8 camteeth, see below) is suitable, but this makes it depend on (on 1-tooth camsync)secondary trigger makes it inferior to N-1 multitooth crankwheel

I'd go with some available N-1 crankwheel (it can be manufactured too, but there are cheap bolton options for most engines) and a VR sensor from a factory car.

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