MembersPage/AntonLilja

----

serial number 303, sent out on 2005-07-09 (among the first 5 v3.3 - these had no R181 PNP-ed)

* apparently you assembled yourself: confirm R181 has been soldered (100 .. 180k) according to the note you received from the shop: If using VR on primary trigger, please check R181 100k (0805 size SMD)resistor at LM1815 pin7. (min 47k, max 180k; 100k recommended: you can find 100k in rescue kit marked as 104 ).

** R181 is connected to LM1815pin7, so NOT the two pads right next to LM1815 pins 6 & 7 (which is the 3 pin header connected to LM1815 pin5, leave that 3 pins open!)

** You do not actually need the R181 resistor when using HALL as primary, but recommended to install it anyway to avoid future surprise (if using VR later). Anyway, have a note about this in the logs (or trigger related notes) that you write for your ECM.

** believe it or not, I independently copied the old R181 note (we even had an edit conflict when I saw your question and added more info on the pin).

* remove D100 if you use powerflyback GenBoard/Manual/PowerFlyback/RemoveD

* change C103 to 1nF if using secondary trigger HALL : Manual/InputTriggerHardWare/ReplaceC

* solder 33 ohm, 0805 size smd resistor (reads 330 which means 33*10^0) to set AREF=256. See closeup pic on BuildProcedures/SectionThree (not required but recommended)

----

Outputs

The FET and IGBT places on the board can be assigned with much freedom. See GenBoard/Manual/DigitalOut, GenBoard/Manual/DigitalOut/Table

* injectors => injector outputs

* ignition => ignition outputs (logiclevel for active coils; IGBT based power outputs for passive coils)

* bipolar stepper (if used) => stepper outputs

* other outputs => after assigning the above use the remaining outputs. take care about current rating and flyback protection (eg. WBO2 second channel FET and DPAK "extraFET"-s have no flyback installed by default!)

** Use the higher current stuff first for more safety

** except for (low current like) LEDs (like shiftlight), where p259 outputs are the best

** don't forget flyback and GND and GND5 connections

----

See InternetHorsePower - Not sure why you made this comment but, Javad is the owner of http://www.034motorsport.com and he's well known in the Audi tuning circuits. He's very professional and

* I have no doubt that his numbers are genuine, he knows and lets us know exactly the factors playing in to his dynoing numbers. See http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8814

** apparently there is no sufficient information to confirm or deny the numbers

*** true, but usually there never is to confirm to 100%. if you read a couple of posts down there are comparisons with stock and chipped cars, as a guideline.

** does his 400m time confirms his published HP?

*** He doesn't have any recent times, and 402m times have many variables playing in (drives skill/technique, windspeed, road surface etc), so it's not always a good comparison.

** anyway don't expect to easily build a 599 WHP (btw does he really mean whp? or write whp and mean estimated crank hp?) 20VT and run it reliably for long

*** Javad's engine is fully built, that's partly why it has held up with more than 500-600whp for 2 years. Also tuning is a big factor when it comes to reliability, and he has a lot of experience with this. Yes he means 640hp at the wheels, as measured by the dyno with no multiplier applied.

* Anyway this isn't very relevant since I'm not building the engine to make huge HP numbers, I just want a good mechanical basis to apply the GenBoard to.

** good

*** I saw that you're doing a similar project, nice. I've done a lot of research on this, and I'd be glad to share info and experience.

----

Q: Is there any benefit in replacing the SMD transient suppr. diode with the big one in Resc1?

** NO. Don't apply reverse supply voltage (or >15V) anyway.