Changes by last author:
Deleted:
| * L3 1.5uH, 5.4A in holes of F1 (big standing black headshrinked barrel, with a 1R5 on it: this part measures appr 0 Ohm with DVM in each direction - or 0 mV with DVM swithced to diode measurement) You can also solder a short to original place of L3 |
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* old buildguides recommend L3=1.5uH, 5.4A in holes of F1 (big standing black headshrinked barrel, with a 1R5 on it: measures appr 0 Ohm with DVM in each direction). It might smooth small voltage fluctuations a bit (negligible anyway), but for rude alternator (or battery break switch that should only be used in case of an accident) that sends huge voltage spikes it actually makes things worse, so not recommended in new installs.
** Just '''get the EC36 pin25 (+12V) to the anode of the small SS24 diode (= cathode of D37, the big throughole 18V transient diode, see above), with a small PTC or fuse (appr 1A without stepper, or 3..4A if stepper is used and heavily loaded), or a wire (a thin wire is OK) instead of the 5.4A inductor. |