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http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa262/shushu4345/ignitionsetting.jpg ---- '''Ignition outputs are wired like''' Firing order: => 1 2 4 3 (not 1 3 4 2) '''Bad wiring''': From bottom to top ^. * cyl 3 ignch2 EC36pin34 output 20 * cyl 4 ignch7 EC36pin10 output 70 * cyl 2 ignch6 EC36pin24 output 60 * cyl 1 ignch3 EC36pin36 output 30 This wiring is not suitable for ign_dualout (so with 4 coils, you would need camsync). '''Recommended wiring''': From bottom to top ^. * cyl 3 ignch7 EC36pin10 output 70 * cyl 4 ignch2 EC36pin34 output '''20''' * cyl 2 ignch6 EC36pin24 output 60 * cyl 1 ignch3 EC36pin36 output '''30''' ign_out=72 h[2]=70 '''30''' 70 '''30''' 00 00 00 00 The reason for this is because with ign_dualout (N, N-1 rule), * selecting ignch7 will also fire ignch6 * selecting ignch3 will also fire ignch2 My fuse keeps blowing everytime I crank. I have setting coilcharge time to 0.58 ms, but still it keeps blowing. Not that ignition preparation status was not enough for wiring (and configuration), yet alone to start cranking ! ''' I have seen this problem, it turned out that the car I worked had a CDI ignition system from the factory and CDI coils are not compatible with an inductinve ignition system. In my case I could get it to give very weak spark at 0.1-0.2ms dwell and 0.0 added at 6v. Measure the primary resistance of the coil and report that, the result of the resistance measurement may not be conclusive but it's a start. - Jörgen''' 10A shared fuse for 2 coils is not recommended. Prefer 4..5A/coil for initial startup. It should idle OK and revv upto at least 4000 RPM without blowing. Than upgrading to 7.5A / coil for production minimixes the chance for blowing at bad time. '''Do NOT EVEN think about a 20 A fuse !'''. 10A is already too much, it might allow peak 15A so it might not provide proper protection. ---- Scope of my primary http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa262/shushu4345/13334.jpg
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