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IMPORTANT: enter the case-INsensitive alphabetic (no numbers) code AND WRITE SOME SHORT summary of changes (below) if you are saving changes. (not required for previewing changes). Wiki-spamming is not tolerated, will be removed, so it does NOT even show up in history. Spammers go away now. Visit Preferences to set your user name Summary of change: Skassa.DK Old MS user and is going to test VEMS now I have before run a 300+hp 4agze on a MS, And a 400hp Impreza on a LinkEcu, All wiring and mapping done by meself,as i had a compagny here in Denmark,map the Impreza first,then i went on track,and the engine blow, then i learned it myself Car: Toyota AE 86 '''20v black top engine''' More to come MembersPage/PhatBob - I did one of these as my first customer install: http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=MembersPage%2FPhatBob%2FToyotaFitting The Raw Engineering fitting kit was a good addition. I have tested the standard 4a-ge distributor with VR trigger hardware with coil trigger. http://www.vems.hu/wiki/index.php?page=VehicleFitment%2FToyota Give me a shout if you need any help. Thanks , Bob Please write thematically, not chronologically (so others can review your project and help easier). Separate pages for each subsystem is the best, but at the minimum separate sections (like trigger, ignition, injection, idle-air, etc...) and if (the same subsystem of) different engines mix on one page (like they have almost identical idle-air), make sure notation is clear I can see that you used a 36-1 trigger wheel on the crankwheel,i´m thinking of using the OE parts, or if it´s get to tricky, i will just get the complete Edis system, Edis , was what i run on the 300hp 4AGZE,and it was working great, I have just ordered a 20feet container in Japan with engines,so it will be about 2month, before they get here, Thanks, again, And i´m sure i will get back to you ---- '''LCD header soldering issue''' I have been making a V3.3 , and have made a mistake with the LCD connector, I had first put in a plug connector,but unsoldered it again to put the wires in direct, but now there is nothing to solder at, It´s pin1 at the board,(pin9 DB9 cable). According to GenBoard/BuildProcedures/LCDconnect this is the RS (preferred white wire) signal. Please make a photo so we can verify (you know that the 2 leftmost pins on the 2x6pin header). For the RS signal, you just connect to the pin4 of the S259 chip (74HC259), damn easy, right at the pad you ripped, you just blank the wire 2 mm longer and reach the chip pin. Just make sure not to make more damage, use solderer with suitable tip. ---- '''Trigger''' * Can someone provide a pic, were the 2 teeth ae removed from the 24teeth wheel?,or does it not matter what teeth i remove,as long as its 180degees apart? ** why do you want 2 missing teeth? '''1 missing tooth, like 24-1 is much better''', especially if you want camsync (and COP) later. The only advantage of 2 missing teeth 180 crankdegrees apart is slighlty faster (1/4 crankrot average vs. 1/2 crankrot) sync at cranking, but Mik (MembersPage/MichaelKristensen) hated his 36-2 (180 crankdeg apart) missing tooth so much he patched one of the missing teeth (which was harder than it seemed). * And do i run it VR or Hall? ** do you hav HALL or VR sensor ? Measure resistance between sensor leads, each pair of pins, both direction, and document it - so we can tell if it's HALL or VR. Scopeshot of the signal also reviels, of course And it would be perfect if i could get the wire color of what wires, that is what, on both the TPS(3 wires) and the the OE trigger sensor(4wires)on the toyota blacktop wiring Thanks. Skassa. ---- 07-08-2006 I have now conntected the OE 24 teeth wheel,but the triggersignal is jumping aound from 25-350rpm,so there is something wrong, can somebody help me? probably, start with uploading config (Manmcd, mct dump). Don't forget firmware version, just in case. I run it as VR, and have grinded the tooth,so that next tooth is trigger tdc,and then 180degrees oppesite. 12-1, next trigger tooth 6. Or is it better just to mount a new triggerwheel on the crank? I also need some helt on the injector settings,as this is really bad explained, there needs to be some standard settings!! There are very many examples on MembersPage, consider any working setting as standard setting. Your better explanation is highly welcome, please remember to take a few mins with this after you understand GenBoard/Manual/DigitalOut/Table better. There is a proposal to use the "injgroup" naming during configuration so it's clearly separated from injector outputs (one knows that if he configures injgroup6, injgroup6 must be configured elsewhere regarding what injector output or outputs to contain). ---- '''Idle air''' The toyota iac is a two coil unit. Can this be controlled ? BMW and audi uses similar iac, and both are controlled. MembersPage/GergelyLezsak/IdleControl controlled it first, now the feature enabled in standard firmware. From global.h : <code> uint8_t iac_conf; // iac, bit7:softidle bit6:asym bit5:dualsol bit4=1:ignadv ON, bit3:preciseidle bit2:stepper(0=pwm) bit1: low_power_halt bit0:power_iac_only_when_move </code> You need to use dual solenoid (bit5=1) with the standard PWM (precise-idle) valve settings. iac_conf=0x78 would be good, but iac_conf=0x68 is better for start (ignition-based idle off via bit4=0). * The needs to be to wires for it, right? ** ? ** with dual solenoid output, there is some restriction with the output selection. The 2 outputs must be neighbors like configure ign/6 and use ign/6 and ign/7 (the latter will be inverted), see GenBoard/Manual/DigitalOut/Table With the injector outputs (injgroups) you have complete freedom (because of injgroups.) Optional: Add document to category: Wiki formatting: * is Bullet list ** Bullet list subentry ... '''Bold''', ---- is horizontal ruler, <code> preformatted text... </code> See wiki editing HELP for tables and other formatting tips and tricks.