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The current project is a 1982 Range Rover, with a rebuilt bored and stroked 301 Rover V8. It's fitted with a modified P76 crank and ACL Falcon-spec pistons. It runs ARP studs and bolts on the heads, mains, and rods, and uses quality stainless fasteners on the less critical external components. The cam is a Piper 270/110i with JP timing gear, along with a custom crank scraper from Ishihara-Johnson Crank Scrapers, and J&E Engineering oil pump valve. The intake is a very unrestrictive 3" K&N and custom alloy air tube, and currently runs 227cc Ford Racing / Denso injectors fed through a 3.5 bar Porsche regulator from a in-tank pump and retro-fitted plastic fuel tank. Cooling is via a Davies Craig EWP controlled by a CSR guage/controller, and a Summit branded S-blade electric fan with a Mr Gasket thermatic switch. The exhaust duties are currently handled by a set of Hedman headers into a 3" single system with cat. As well as a big motor, it's also fitted with upgraded slotted/vented DBA brakes, Bilstein shocks, Polybushes, and oversized Whiteline swaybars. Power is delivered though a B&M kitted and cooled Chrysler TF-A727 and the factory full-time 4WD setup. Strangely enough, a Lokar kickdown cable is an almost bolt-on mod with the 3.9 throttle body. Interior lighting is now via high intensity white LED. The audio is handled by Infinity Reference splits and a Kenwood CD deck. The plan is to upgrade this to Blaupunkt Bremen MP74 CD/MP3, Blaupunkt CDC-A 03 changer, 2 sets of 6.5" Infinity Kappa splits for the front and rear doors, Infinity !BassLink powered sub, and a Coustic 1200Q 4 channel amp. It's currently waiting for the twin intercooled turbochargers to be rebuilt and fitted, bigger injectors to be bought, traction control to be developed, and an electronically controlled 5 speed auto to be fitted. A GReddy turbo timer and boost controller have also been purchased and fitted discretely into the heater outlet panel. The turbos and exhaust manifolds will be ceramic coated for heat management. The real question is how much bling does it need? It *does* need new street wheels! Sadly, I've checked out Boyds Wheels and a custom set of 18" [http://www.billetwheel.com/cgi/wheels.cgi?cmd=show_image&path=Bitchin_Series&img=0&tn=1 Blaster] wheels is looking good. Alternatively, Zinik 20" [http://www.zinikwheels.com/Z14.htm Z14 Ferara] can be drilled to fit. I wanted the [http://www.zinikwheels.com/Z17.htm Z17 Caroza], but 5x6.5 stud pattern is hard to fit). Tyres are likely to be Yokohama . Also thinking of some other tweaks such as new billet/bar grille, removing the light guards, fitting clear indicators, LED brake/turn lamps, tinted windows, and possibly a 1" drop with new springs. The interior will need some attention too. Just been shopping for diffs. Detroit Trutrac looks ideal, and pretty cheap too. Oh, and my student loan still needs to be paid off. Oh well, it's only money... ----- My new 3.1 arrived the other day. Cheers guys. OK, I've rewritten this lot for the sake of positivity and clarity... Here's where I'm at: * Cleaned up and rebuilt VBATT input, adding missing resistor R6 using rescue kit. Recalibrated with a batt_cal of BC. Measured voltage is 12.30, but I can only get !MegaTunix to tell me 12.25 or 12.35. Close enough? * Replaced dodgy regulator with a hacksawed T220 replacement. Couldn't find any SMT parts locally. It doesn't make the same noise the previous one did. You should have add some caps from the rescue kit at the input (at least 25V caps on the input please!!) and output instead of replacing the repulator. The LM2940S low dropout regulator is very nice, it just need slightly more caps on the output. The board has the minimum (especially the ones for developers), and there are many free cap-places and caps in the rescue-kits. I had already added C72 and L3 before the regulator gave out. I'll add some more before the replacement LM2940T does too... * Replaced caps D71 and C68 (why would these fail?) with parts from rescue kit. * Damaged power supply input traces while removing leaded components to locate the problem... :( It was fixable, but the PCB sure doesn't like heat... As Marcell says, only the first 15 v3.1 missed R6, so it shouldn't be an issue with current production boards. ---- Here's a pic of the old truck... http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/RichardBarrington/rangie-at-night-small.jpg (no, the oil underneath isn't mine!) ---- Back to MembersPage/RichardBarrington
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