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IMPORTANT: enter the case-INsensitive alphabetic (no numbers) code AND WRITE SOME SHORT summary of changes (below) if you are saving changes. (not required for previewing changes). Wiki-spamming is not tolerated, will be removed, so it does NOT even show up in history. Spammers go away now. Visit Preferences to set your user name Summary of change: '''Ignition Setup''' for MembersPage/MarteleurTim Tim will describe the engine basics (like cyl-count, etc...) on MembersPage/MarteleurTim page to make it possible to help. I keep distributor only for distribution. I use Hall sensor on crank as a trigger input for the VEMS. Q: So actually I have to lock the plate in the distributor and remove the vacuumline in order to lock the vacuumadvance and let the distributor only distribute the spark? A: With the distributor used only for spark distribution, and not timing advance, none of what you described is necessary. The poles in the rotor cap are fixed, that is all that matters for spark distribution. Q: Do I need a triggerwheel or can I just bolt on two magnets 180° separate on the standardcrankwheel? A: With many auxiliary belts (air conditioner, servo steering, ..) this can be a problem to fit correctly. The main concern is that it must be rock solid and accurate, and be appropriate for the sensor you will use with the trigger solution. With a good Hall trigger (Honeywell GT1 is recommended) you don't have to use magnets, two slots or fields in a ferrous material is all that is needed and can be fastened in many ways depending on how the stock crank pulley is designed. In this day and age of cheap digital cameras, pictures still speak more than a thousand words, so get some snapshots. OK here is a pic from the crankpulley: http://www.vems.hu/files/Marteleur%20Tim/crankpulley.JPG This is how the engine looks on the output side of the crankpulley: http://www.vems.hu/files/Marteleur%20Tim/crankpulley2.JPG TODO: fabricate trigger setup with Hall sensor on original crankpulley I have setup the wheel with two bolts 180° separated and +- 60°BTDC. ---- '''Config''' * How do I determine the correct amount of degrees the trigger passes the sensor before the crank reaches TDC? ** remove a sparkplug so you can measure the piston height with a screwdriver or micrometer gauge. Rotate the engine slowly *** with wrench, from the crank (not cam!) *** or by moving the car, in gear 5 OK but then I still have to measure with a degreestool the exact amount of degrees the trigger is from TDC. This is not so easy to determine whether it is 60° or 61° or 58°? Measure the white dot (paint one if there is none) position precisely, and the trigger position only roughly. The dot is 0..10 degrees BTDC, quite easy to measure. This allows you to adjust the ign_tdcdelay with a TimingLight. You can also use permanent marker pen and use length-measuring tool (eg. at the circumference of a wheel) and calculate degrees. OK thanks I will do that. Some Q's about the first config based on a similar engine of Mattias volvo * req_fuel=73# req-fuel for 4cyl engine 1755cc and 149cc injectors ** 0x73=115 = 11.5 msec is '''awfully lot'''. Half the req_fuel, so the VE values are doubled: 0..200 is better precision than 0..100 ** #req_fuel = 6.49 x (D/N/I) = 6.49 x (1755/4/149)= 19.1ms. This is even worse * divider=01# 4 injectorbanks * alternate=03 * kpafac=7D # 250 kPa MAP sensor * kpaoffs=6B * injopen=00 # keep this 00 * battfac=10 * injocfuel=15 # 21*24usec is a bit too low, 800..1000 usec is a better starting value ** but it depends on flyback, so you want to write about it (powerflyback, low-voltage, high-voltage) if you really want to finetune (it should not be critical unless with very big injectors) * injrampup_battfac=FF * injpwm=FF * injpwmt=FF # PWM-ing disabled * injpwm6=00 Optional: Add document to category: Wiki formatting: * is Bullet list ** Bullet list subentry ... '''Bold''', ---- is horizontal ruler, <code> preformatted text... </code> See wiki editing HELP for tables and other formatting tips and tricks.