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Subpage of MembersPage/MarcellGal/PowerAndTraction K26-6/27 turbo, the K27 compressor looks like (cm scale): http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MarcellGal/Audi/turbo/K26_27_compressor_m.jpg ---- '''Exhaust and turbo''' We use the factory exhaust manifold, but custom 70 mm diameter exhaust (at least the exhaust is ALS compatible ;-) A friend purchased [http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUDI-2-2L-20V-RS2-S2-S4-K26-EXHAUST-TURBO-MANIFOLD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ001QQitemZ110110256869QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW 187 USD RS2 exhaust manifold] from [http://search.ebay.com/audi-rs2-exhaust-manifold_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8QQsubmitsearchZSearch ebay] * it's actually 187 + 100 USD with shipping to Eastern EU * as you might expect, the weldings look good outside, not so perfect inside. But not very bad either * friend will try to stick (bigger than K26/27) turbo on his manifold, without extra strengthening (for street use). I think that is a bad idea, the exhaust manifold will crack (sooner than later) due to heat and vibration. ** I would definitely strengthen: connecting to near engine-mountpoint (seems best: turbo is very close to engine mountpoint in the audi, 8..10cm: only watch some clearance for securing screws). Connecting to head is another option ---- '''Turbo (compressor side) upgraded''' to K26/27 (appr 6xx EUR). Good for max appr 400HP. Minor compromise is that '''it is now an oil-only turbo''' (=> no watercooling: if I understand right, keeping watercooling would require some overpriced factory parts that just aint worth it). The K26 turbo was upgraded by http://www.ahturbo.hu/ with instructions: * '''to upgrade compressor side to K27 with rotor sizes 53mm/76mm''' ** turbine wheel dia=56mm, compressor dia=53mm (would be useless with turbine smaller than compressor). ** turbine outlet is 56mm diameter (the 6 in KKK numbering scheme). It's the clone of a proven setup (that worked well in an engine built by them earlier). Perfect for the street. * turbine renewed (but housing kept) * oil-only accepted (no water-cooling) K26-6 turbine housing (cm scale): http://www.vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MarcellGal/Audi/turbo/K26-6_turbine_27_compressor_m2.jpg * Kalske says: Remember that RS2 turbo is 48/54 which is good for about 360, you are getting 53/55 which will do 400++ ** Nanassy said exactly the same ! * Kalske and jhwh say: the same turbine wheel goes into 3 different A/R housing, marked (in KKK numbering) 6,8 and 10. Higher nr gives more power (appr 45 HP each step), but boosts later (3000, 3500 and 4000 RPM, respectively). ** so turbine housing="8" is the best choice for this turbo. Stay away from 10. 6 is not optimal, but works. (and 6 might match the restricted exhaust manifold and factory charge-cooler and street-operation better than the other turbine housings) ** you should look for a cheap #8 house. On [ http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=72 rennlist] you can probably get a 8 housing next to free as many people upgrade. I contacted the guy (back than) but he did not reply. ** if you come over a good deal on one it should only be a minor mod, remove turbo, remove housing, bolt back on * AFAIK KKK uses cm2 rating on turbines instead of A/R (on Garretts, and so on...). I guesstimate the 8cm2 turbine will provide a quick spool-up (maybe in the 2200-2800 rpm range on a 2.2l engine), which means big fun on street, and some restriction in the top-end power. -GergelyLezsak- ---- '''Wastegate''' - to be replaced ? * after we fixed a small leak * did a no-airfilter test * with '''full (precooler) boost applied to wastegate top''' * nothing (athmosphere) on wastegate bottom max '''MAP''' was still only '''199..205 kPa''' => Most likely the wastegate is broken (the diaphragm/membrane is broken?) and the spring is too weak to hold against the exhaust pressure (the area is quite big on this wastegate). If the wastegate membrane is broken, the 1 bar boost is about right (based on other's experience) for this audi factory wastegate. * What should we do with the wastegate ? * How can we make sure that is the problem ? ** apply some pressure (with compressor) on top and see if it leaks > ** should we use some mechanical stop (or much stiffer spring) as further test ? * Does wastegate have to be pulled completely ? ** Or guts can be replaced without pulling the whole thing ? The quattro car is fun with 200kPa, but we would like 270 .. 280 kPa MAP. otherwise the engine was a bit too expensive (for factory power).
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