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'''Trigger related''' subpage of MembersPage/MarcellGal/PowerAndTraction There is still some uncertainty about which sensor position is which. They mounted the engine (apparently properly ;-) but ... the 2 sensors were in a box. The 2 sensors * look almost identical (one has grey boot, the other has black) * with same pinout, * measure 1001 and 985 Ohm, respectively * has 3-pin AMP-style male connectors. ** using a '''DVM in DC mode, and a wrench, we checked in 1 minute that the mid-pin must be GND for proper polarity''' (and the pin at the side must be the signal). The proper polarity (with LM1815 that senses falling edge) means signal is positive when wrench gets closer to sensor and negative when wrench comes away ** Of course, in the factory wiring the GND (which is shared between the sensors, and probably with other sensors) is the other, so I need to '''swap the 2 wires in the harness to reverse polarity '''. This confirms what Miska documented earlier. * the holes at the very top of the clutch housing, see [http://vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MarcellGal/Audi/clutch/bay_no_engine_0015.jpg pic15] and [http://vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MarcellGal/Audi/clutch/gearboxshaft_0014.jpg pic14] look like those for VR sensor (maybe not: hard to tell with engine mounted). Not sure what this can be good for, though.... * See [http://vems.hu/files/MembersPage/MarcellGal/Audi/clutch/flywheel_0017.jpg pic17] for the 2 good candidates for crank135 and crankhome: both on the right side of the engine, close to each other. ** the front sensor is the crankhome. This sensor closer to the sky, it sits deeper in the housing, see [http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/20vtime.html SJM pages] We might have to scope it anyway, to verify crankhome polarity and HALL window position. Found some metric (M6?) screws, used a washer and an extra female to make it proper length, and mounted sensors in the 2 holes close to each other. Teppo said: * grey one reads flywheel teeth * black reads the pin behind the flywheel That is, with normal mounting. I will have to check (and document) if I followed the standard (colors: no other difference between sensors), or got it with colors swapped. ---- '''Cam-HALL sensor''' There are 2(-3) possible cam-HALL setups, with exactly the same function. * http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/20vhall.html ** timing belt sprocket, at the front-end of the camshaft ** inside the distributer *** dummy distributer *** real distributer (that's what I have) I found that ... * I see the window (I have a one window shutter-wheel mounted). A 5-window wheel would be easier to setup, because a random position is likely good there, while a random position is likely bad with the one-(small-)window wheel. * after unclamping the M13 screw, I can move the HALL sensor (moves together with the "Bosch" housing) * DVM measurement: the sensor gets 5.08V ** Note that 3B Hall needs 12V supply (MembersPage/GintsK) Sorry! Only 7A n/a 20V engine have 12V supply in accordance with BOSCH manual. 3B and AAN - 5V. ** That is weird. We did NOT change the 3B harness, and the HALL sensor receives +5V supply from the ECU (from same point as the TPS supply). So I would NOT dare to apply 12V there (and possibly damage the TPS or other sensors). *** But I can disconnect the HALL from the harness and provide 12V from other means. This will not hurt if the HALL is damaged anyway, and will reveal if our HALL sensor needs 12V. The almost factory engine which was in (in a broken state, before our built engine was installed) was hacked in unknown ways, so anything is possible * (when sensor disconnected): I can pull the HALL signal to GND with a small wire (and measure EC36-pin13 go from 3.97V to 0V) * but the sensor will not pull to GND * examining a bit closer: the HALL sensor connector in the car looks suspicious at least, '''almost like if the male receptacles were broken off, maybe the sensor is good just no contact to the female connector ?''' Conclusion: '''either the connector tricked us badly, or my HALL sensor is bad'''. 1.1.23 allowed running without HALL (with bad starting: every 2nd attempt on average). The factory motronic setup continues to run if HALL sensor is disconnected after startup. But 1.1.23 also allows to start up the engine (with 50% chance) and good running (without retard: retard makes little sense when only HALL is faulty, since timing is done from crank anyway). This does not effect normal operation, the same code runs perfectly when there is proper HALL signal, of course. ---- '''Spare HALL sensor''' I verified that my spare HALL sensor works (from the audi distributer with the slightly bent shaft) * black: GND * red: +5V supply * green: pulled to +5V via 4k7 ** surprisingly, the sensor pulls output to GND when nothing in the shutter. ** the sensor releases the output (=> 4.96V by pullup) when ferrous material is placed in the shutter But I don't know if such a spare sensor makes things easier. Not a bolt-out, bolt-in thing. Although I have the spare sensor in the distributer with bent shaft, a small HALL sensor, and 1GT101 sensor too, it seems difficult to mount it in a sane way (either on front side wheel or inside distributer). Had the front-side wheel have 5 (or 7 or any odd number would work) spokes, instead of 6, that would make it easier to watch those with a 1GT101 HALL sensor. ---- '''Useful links''' * http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/20vtime.html * http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/trouble_shooting/20vhall.html
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