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IMPORTANT: enter the case-INsensitive alphabetic (no numbers) code AND WRITE SOME SHORT summary of changes (below) if you are saving changes. (not required for previewing changes). Wiki-spamming is not tolerated, will be removed, so it does NOT even show up in history. Spammers go away now. Visit Preferences to set your user name Summary of change: I have access to wiring diagrams for any vehicle available in North American 1983-present. Sometimes I can cross it over to Rest Of World cars. If you need schematics for anything, feel free to email me. alandaeric at hotmail dot com ---- The very bottom of my page has all the questions I am trying to figure out and stuck on, above that (and below this) is the answers I have recieved and some more questions that I have yet to put effort into looking for an answer. If you are bored and would like to plug in what I need to know or answer some of the questions I have yet to try, feel welcome. ---- SHOPING LIST Have: case, connectors, This is what I know I need so far, any thing I missed or suggestions appreciated. GenboardV3.2 1 x TPIC8101DW. Dual-channel acoustic knock sensor interface chip 1 x Stepper driver IC, package: DIP16 9 x FET: FQPF20N06L (FAI) 15A, 1 x wideband conector 1 x DPAK FET for genboard v3.2 (for cooling fan relay if possible) ---- MY PROJECT Ford 347 stroker *Using ford 36-1 crank trigger wheel *Using ford cam sensor (hall effect) *Using LS1 ignition coils ** This is what I know so far: 4 wires, 12v , ground, ground to the ecu and then the trigger wire. I have done some various measurements on a running vehicle. Trigger is by a 4 volt signal (I didnt think to check the trigger time but the scale was set to 1 second and it was just a vertical blip) that does not change at all with rpm. I suspect it is extremely low amp. I have measured dwell, it sits around 59 degrees at all engine speeds and loads. Duty cycle was at about 95%, stayed constant. Pulse width changed dramatically but if I understand it correctly, that is due to the engine speed increase that is decreasing the amount of time each coil has between firing. *** Use the same driver as the original IGBT is driven from, just solder a jumper wire in place of the IGBT, between the 2 pins closest to the EC36 connector, and use ign_out=70 in your config /Emil *Standard GM map sensor *Standard GM ect sensor *Standard GM air temp sensor *Not sure which idle stepper motor, whatever the 1000cfm throttle body comes with (GM mostlikely) *Bosch WB 02, unless someone tells me the NTK one can be easily substituted. *knock sensor, assume any will work?? ---- WISH LIST *I would like to be able to control the engine fans and electric waterpump through a relay. *I would like to have a configureable speedo output. (not for my project) *Drive by Wire, need some serious help with that one. ---- "Use the same driver as the original IGBT is driven from, just solder a jumper wire in place of the IGBT, between the 2 pins closest to the EC36 connector" Thanks for that answer Emil, although now I really feel stupid, I am no electronics genius but I am smart enough that I should have thought of that. QUESTIONS 1.Where can I learn more about my_make configuring. "and use ign_out=70 in your config /Emil" I want to understand why I do this, I assume that it just means "allow all 8 IGBT circuits to work" but I have searched the wiki and cant seem to find anything descriptive. 2.Being lazy on this one, 36-1 ford crank triggerwheel, am I right in thinking it is a VR sensor? Thanks in advance Optional: Add document to category: Wiki formatting: * is Bullet list ** Bullet list subentry ... '''Bold''', ---- is horizontal ruler, <code> preformatted text... </code> See wiki editing HELP for tables and other formatting tips and tricks.