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I have access to wiring diagrams for any vehicle available in North American 1983-present. Sometimes I can cross it over to Rest Of World cars. If you need schematics for anything, feel free to email me. alandaeric at hotmail dot com ---- The very bottom of my page has all the questions I am trying to figure out and stuck on, above that (and below this) is the answers I have recieved and some more questions that I have yet to put effort into looking for an answer. If you are bored and would like to plug in what I need to know or answer some of the questions I have yet to try, feel welcome. ---- SHOPPING LIST Have: Everything, except I forgot to order the dpak fet GenboardV3.2 1 x TPIC8101DW. Dual-channel acoustic knock sensor interface chip 1 x Stepper driver IC, package: DIP16 9 x FET: FQPF20N06L (FAI) 15A, 1 x DPAK FET for genboard v3.2 '''make sure you use a flyback diode if driving inductive loads with the DPAK FET'''. The flyback diode (eg. BY399 is fast 3A, or 1n4007 is slower 1A diode. ES2J is a fast 2A SMB footprint SMD diode) can live in the harness, or on-board (no dedicated pads!). The lack of flyback diode will ruin the DPAK FET and possibly cause other damage when inductive loads are driven. ---- MembersPage/EricN/BuildNotes MY PROJECT Ford 347 stroker- on hold,(taking to long to build car) Temporarily putting it in a 61 404 unimog, mercedes 2.2l straight 6. Using crane fireball optical trigger with 5 of the windows blocked off for cam phase. Vr sensor for crank input, (unless I can get away without it as the vehicle needs to appear bone stock) not sure on tooth count yet. *Using LS1 ignition coils ** This is what I know so far: 4 wires, 12v , ground, ground to the ecu and then the trigger wire. I have done some various measurements on a running vehicle. Trigger is by a 4 volt signal (I didnt think to check the trigger time but the scale was set to 1 second and it was just a vertical blip) that does not change at all with rpm. I suspect it is extremely low amp. I have measured dwell, it sits around 59 degrees at all engine speeds and loads. Duty cycle was at about 95%, stayed constant. Pulse width changed dramatically but if I understand it correctly, that is due to the engine speed increase that is decreasing the amount of time each coil has between firing. *** Use the same driver as the original IGBT is driven from, just solder a jumper wire in place of the IGBT, between the 2 pins closest to the EC36 connector, and use ign_out=70 in your config /Emil *Standard GM map sensor *Standard GM ect sensor *Standard GM air temp sensor *Not sure which idle stepper motor, whatever the 1000cfm throttle body comes with (GM mostlikely) *Bosch WB 02, unless someone tells me the NTK one can be easily substituted. *knock sensor, assume any will work?? about my_make or config.txt? config.txt contains all of your tables and running settings, and my_make contains settings regarding hardware (enabling LCD, keyboard, WBO2, etc). If you are looking to learn about config.txt, look into the file called global.h, or read through MembersPage/Jimw/Config A lot of settings are also described in the manual. Will this VFD work easily?? http://www.vfdworld.com/techdocs/Noritake_CU20045SCPB-T23A_4x20_VFD.pdf It's a serial VFD, it will not work. You need a paralell interface with a 44080 compatible command set. Note that VFD displays often have small incompatibilities with LCD displays even if they are listed as LCD compatible. ---- WISH LIST *I would like to have a configureable speedo output. (not for my project) *Drive by Wire, need some serious help with that one. ---- QUESTIONS Since I have changed the vehicle that my v3.2 is going in (temporarily), I have a few questions that have come up. For cam phase, I plan on using the crane fireball optical trigger (already installed to get rid of the points). I am going to block off 5 of the 6 windows to give me 1 pulse. It will start out as a 6 cyl with COP, maybe throttle body injection, not sure, siamese intake runners I assume will require that or sequential injection. ---- My question is this, *What is the minimum amount of teeth my crank trigger wheel needs to make everything run. I realize more is better (to a point) but understand that this is only temporary and the unimog will be converted back to distributer based ignition (ecu controlled timing/dwell) and simple throttle body injection (insurance reasons)with a lesser ecu. *While I am at it, I read somewhere about running a multitooth cam trigger and running it in wasted spark mode as a 12 cyl,using the primary trigger input. Then i could use the COP coils without crank trigger. Again, what is the rule of thumb for trigger events per cyl firing in the different modes. *I assume that you also have to have the cylinders as a multiple of the triggers (cant have 4 crank triggers on a 6 cyl engine etc. would need 3, 6, 12, 18 etc) Example A: cop needs x triggers per cyl plus cam phase. (do you need missing tooth on crank trigger wheel?) B: wasted spark needs x triggers and missing tooth C: distributer based needs x triggers per cyl ---- My best guess is, at a minimum A: 4cyl needs 2 triggers + cam , 6 needs 3 + cam, etc. B: Needs double the triggers with 1 tooth missing/extra so 4 cyl needs 8-1, 6 cyl needs 12-1 etc. C: Needs same as option A but no cam trigger So, am I correct, or out to lunch?
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