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Summary of change:
'''Trigger related page for MembersPage/DTechnologies/Hayabusa project''' I need to configure the firmware for my engine. '''Basic info''' * 4 cylinder, dual overhead cam, 1298cc displacement * Redline: 10,900rpm * Firing order: 1-2-4-3 (inner 2 cylinders and outer 2 cylinders move in unison) ** I have a picture showing the order and (very) rough timing taken from the service manual. I'll post it when I can. * '''crank and cam triggers involved''' - both are variable reluctance sensors. The 2nd LM1815 bought separately (only 1 LM1815 is populated by default) is already mounted on board (?). ---- '''Crank trigger''' * there are 8 equidistant teeth on the crank * positions: ... I don't know the timing yet ---- '''Cam trigger''' * single tooth (natch) * timing: I don't know the timing yet ---- '''How do I figure out the timing?''' - with the least amount of fuss We usually remove a sparkplug, and move the car in gear 5 until the given engine is at TDC. Than look at the trigger wheels. There are often marks on the crankwheel (that can be at TDC or other position in custom-hacked setups) This is something I've been fearing. I've had the engine apart but I can't determine anything that way because the sensors themselves are mounted inside the covers (valve cover & stator cover). At best I'd only be able to guess how many degree's forward or back they are of the tooth/teeth. ---- '''How to I set up the firmware appropriately?''' The bad news is that current firmware does not support this crankwheel directly, unless engine is a 16cyl. '''Options:''' * bolt on another wheel, eg. 12-1 (or 36-1 or 60-2). Feasible ? ** 2003 Hayabusa uses a 24-1 wheel. The wheel is also the magnet wheel for the generator...so it's a bit expensive. The search for a used one has been going on for months. ** Aftermarket options are available. Fast by Gast makes a 2 magnet trigger wheel which is driven by starter gears. Requires entire starter housing to be replaced with custom assembly cnc'd out of billet aluminum...even more expensive unfortunately. * grind off 1 tooth from crank to get a 8-1 multitooth wheel ** Teeth are very wide. This would definately cause balance issues. * firmware modification: feasible, but significant table-testing needed ** Considering my inexperience, this might not be the best path. * Adding a magnets to the wheel and using an aftermarket sensor?
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