#### ## ## ## ## ## ## ####
____ | _ \ | |_) | | __/ |_|
##### ## ## ## ## ##
####### ## ## ## ## ## ## #######
## ### ## ## ## ####
IMPORTANT: enter the case-INsensitive alphabetic (no numbers) code AND WRITE SOME SHORT summary of changes (below) if you are saving changes. (not required for previewing changes). Wiki-spamming is not tolerated, will be removed, so it does NOT even show up in history. Spammers go away now. Visit Preferences to set your user name Summary of change: Please see GenBoard/Manual/InitialTesting/VerThree. This page describes the standard procedure to make an assembled v3 from a genboardv3.x Resistor codes are in [] where appropriate. This saves some time for new people/non-experts. '''only needed for v3.1''' * solder the other 2 FETdrivers (from rescue1 kit). * solder the WBO2 pump resistors: 2*510R [511]; and 8*100k [1003 or 104] that are pairwise matched.. (The 8 100K pump resistors in the old circuits were 510k value, but 100k is better). If you make lotsof boards, easiest to classify a set of 100k resistors (80% goes to 5 bins that are 0.1% apart) and populate a board from same values; If you make just one board, you can put the exact matches into pairs: (r33-r34)(r28-r31)(r35-r49) and (r32-r46): this requires slightly more attention, but just as good. (Note that we are overprecise here, the circuit would be fine without any matching). * solder the 0805 FET gate resistors (33 Ohm [330] preferred, but 10..100 Ohm [100..101] OK) * solder the 10k SIL5 R-net. Take care: it has a direction (why do people tend to get this wrong). The dot is the common net of the R-s, it must be connected to the pad near the edge of the PCB. The R-net is best soldered on the bottom of the PCB, as it doesn't conflict with anything there mechanically (if one wants onboard MPX2450AP, SIL5 is better on the bottom side). * solder a few C-s under the OPA rail (C52,C53). '''needed on v3.2 too:''' * '''Solder the flyback rail airwire!''' The airwire should be soldered to the '''middle of the flyback trace''' (not to the end closest to EC36) so that 4 diodes are on one side and 4 diodes are on the other side. This means 1/2 current load for the onboard trace, which is 1/4 heat. Very nice when it's flowing 8A flyback current. * solder 3 lines of switches: 6 + 4 FETs and 2 + 6 IGBTs. An align tool, [http://mail.american.hu/GenBoardv31/GenBoardv31_assembled/PIC_0004.JPG similar to the clamping plate, but has 6 screws]. * the pack includes some insulation material for the IGBTs: SILPAD-900S * solder the EC36 and EC18 PCB side connectors, with the EC frontplate already on and matching to the Alubos. * some more testing (eg wbo2 nernst, pump) * the pack includes 8..10 screws so the frontplate, endplate can be firmed * the pack includes 3 clamping plates (72 mm hole distance) and 6+ 3x10mm screws so they can be fastened. * the pack includes the Alubos (the PCB with the EC frontplate and EC connectors on is slided in), 2 gaskets. Up to now, the sent out Alubos had 6x 3 mm [http://www.vems.hu/files/genboardv3/CaseAndMounting/AlubosClampingHoles.jpg holes drilled] so the clamping is easy. * the pack includes the complete rescue2 kit, and at least the parts from the rescue1 kit that are not soldered (the FETdrivers are soldered, and often the 5.4A inductor too). * MPX4250AP not soldered, not even included by default! Ask customer. (we should have 3 shop options for this !!! electronic connection with no MAP / electronic connection with included MAP / onboard MAP sensor with pressure connector. We should add option to shop. ) * DDFlyBack: earlier we used 1.4V or 6V8 or 20V flyback (asked the customer), but today we use low voltage 0.7V + 0.7V since we have the precise GenBoard/Manual/Config/InjectorOpening. * 2nd lm1815 No need for soldering 2nd LM1815. Not even included by default. * solder a 10uF 35V 1210 size cap at supply input * I think we should solder R112=33k and R169=22k (or maybe R112=10k and R169=10k ?). Slightly different setup than on GenBoard/BuildProcedures/LCDconnect) to make -4V contrast voltage possible. The user could simply solder a high resistor value to GND to move the contrast voltage towards GND * if knock is included (as usually. we will add an option to shop) complete the knock part according to GenBoard/Manual/KnockSensor (which EC18 pin is used? pin 3 cannot be MAP and knock at the same time ...) * if stepper is included (as usually. we will add an option to shop) check GenBoard/BuildProcedures/Stepper. Don't forget the mdh.6 tests to enable the stepper and drive outputs to +12V and GND The EC18 and EC36 wire parts are not included, but we warn customers if they forget to order those when ordering assembled controller. note: if the customer asks to include some 30..40 Euro of extras, (like MPX4250AP, 2nd LM1815, NTC) in the pack, don't charge if they have paid already. ---- '''100k is very precise''' Why are there no "1003" (100k 1%) resistors in the resc1 packs? * I found some 104's and they were suprisingly precise. I was searching for the more precise 1003, but looks like we have great luck with 104 5% precision. They were all within .7 ohms, and I found 8 that were all the same 100.1k ohms. Yes, my girlfriend measured several hundred 104 resistors and it's obvious that their precision would be suitable for soldering them blind. Optional: Add document to category: Wiki formatting: * is Bullet list ** Bullet list subentry ... '''Bold''', ---- is horizontal ruler, <code> preformatted text... </code> See wiki editing HELP for tables and other formatting tips and tricks.